The government's crackdown on the cannabis industry - estimated to be worth $12 billion - was given a shot in the arm by suspicions that hashish was used to partly pay for dynamite that blew up trains in Madrid in 2004, killing 191 people.

Islamist militants claimed the Madrid attacks in the name of al Qaeda, and Moroccans were implicated in the bombings.

The government of the North African kingdom says it aims to erase cannabis production by 2008 and, in a sign its policy is starting to bite, the area cultivated shrank by 10 percent in 2004, according to the International Narcotics Control Board.

But in the Rif, where two-thirds of farmers grow cannabis, people say more should be done to help them develop new sources of income.

Last week, around 3,000 men, women and children held a protest march near the village of Boujdiane. "Yes to fight hashish, no to starvation," some shouted. "Where are the jobs? Where are the promises?"

Abdelillah Bakhoyti, whose cannabis plants in Al Koulla were cut down last July, says his community has been let down.

"We agreed to stop growing cannabis in exchange for a development project but for now they have given us nothing."

GREEN GOLD

Known locally as "Kif" or "green gold", cannabis grows well in the Rif's wild and isolated terrain, and its leaves and flowers are easily transformed into the resin sold on street corners from Amsterdam to Marseille.

But the "green gold" has not enriched the Rif.

In Al Koulla and other villages, people live in homes built of mud and travel by donkey along bone-shaking roads. Many houses are without electricity, running water or toilets and food supplies are often threatened by drought.

Decades of legislation and international conventions failed to stop cannabis cultivation spreading as locals switched out of less lucrative crops in an attempt to earn hard cash.

History has also played a part. The region, which lies about 200 km (125 miles) northeast of the capital Rabat, is struggling to emerge from decades of isolation under former King Hassan.

In 1959, the then crown prince led the army to crush an uprising in Rif by people angered over their exclusion from the first independent Moroccan government.

"In the 60s, cannabis was only grown in the highest, difficult-to-reach mountains, especially in the east and middle of the Rif," said farmer Ahmed Alharrak. "When farmers elsewhere started having problems, they started growing it too."

The government is focusing its efforts on the province of Larache, which accounted for six percent of cannabis cultivation in 2003, or 12,000 hectares (29,600 acres). So far, 4,000 hectares have been destroyed, according to officials.

"We try to convince farmers to tend goats and to plant fruit trees, especially olives, and create cooperative societies to produce dairy products and poultry," said Mohamed Yemlahi, who coordinates an anti-poverty programme launched last year.

He said Larache had received almost 18 million dirhams ($1.98 million) from the government, including 1.5 million to fight cannabis production and create alternative activities.

The government has also launched a multibillion dollar development and expansion programme around the port of Tangier - part of its attempts to revive the region's economy.

CLAMPDOWN

Efforts by King Mohammed since his accession in 1999 to halt the drug trade in the Rif have led to some spectacular arrests - in 2003, 12 people, including judges and police officers, were jailed for links to one of the most dangerous drug gangs.

But for dealers, getting the drugs out is relatively easy.